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小寒吃羊暖洋洋到底哪里的羊才是羊肉界扛把子
2020-01-08 01:59  www.ramsutra.com

新京报讯(记者田杰雄)羊肉主宰国人餐桌的历史向来“有据可考”,商周时代牧羊业发达,到了先秦,能吃上羊肉可就算是件“倍儿有面儿”的事,宋朝宋真宗年间,皇宫里的御厨每天宰羊的数量就能达到三四百只。到如今,百姓们对于羊肉的热衷要是不算一往情深,也能说是一脉相承,尤其冬天,几乎所有节气的习俗都离不开一顿热乎乎的羊肉,小寒更是吃羊的“正日子”。不过要说广袤土地上,哪里的羊最好吃,最有发言权的还得是肥羊主产区里的“乡里”人说了算。

Beijing news (reporter tian jiexiong) the history of mutton dominated the chinese dining table has always been \"according to the test \", the zhou-era sheep industry developed, in the pre-qin dynasty, can eat mutton can be even a\" double son has noodles \"matter, the song dynasty, the imperial kitchen in the palace every day can kill three or four hundred sheep. Up to now, the people's enthusiasm for mutton, if not a deep, can be said to be in the same line, especially in winter, almost all the custom of solar terms cannot be separated from a warm mutton, Xiao Han is the \"day\" to eat sheep. But to say that the vast land, where the sheep are the most delicious, the most have to say is the fat sheep in the main production area of the \"rural\" people.

可是,孕育出大多数人心目中最好吃的羊肉的地方并非水草丰沛。宁夏盐池是典型的农牧交错生态脆弱区,以中度荒漠化土地为主,似乎是大自然对于这片土地的补偿,越是干旱的半荒漠化区域,越能孕育出最好的羊肉。生存条件苛刻的环境下,羊自身往往需要储存的能量就越多,在水分含量少的情况下,羊肉的风味物质也就更加浓郁,是在丰沛水草牧场环境中长大的羊所不能比拟的。

However, the place where most people have the most delicious mutton is not so rich. ningxia yanchi is a typical eco-fragile area of agriculture and animal husbandry, mainly moderate desertification land, seems to be nature's compensation for this land, the more arid the semi-desertized area, the more can breed the best mutton. Under harsh living conditions, sheep themselves often need to store more energy, in the case of less water content, the flavor of mutton substances are more intense, is not comparable to the sheep growing up in the rich water grass pasture environment.

位于宁夏回族自治区东部的吴忠盐池县,坐拥八百多万亩天然草场,曾是宁夏唯一的牧区县。《舌尖》导演陈晓卿曾提到,宁夏滩羊质地最佳,即使是“吃冷的手抓羊肉,也没有膻味。”

Located in Wuzhong Yanchi County in the eastern part of Ningxia Hui Autonomous Region, it has more than eight million mu of natural grassland and was once the only pastoral county in Ningxia. \"The tip of the tongue\" director Chen Xiaoqing has mentioned that Ningxia Tan sheep texture is the best, even \"eat cold hands to catch mutton, there is no smell of mutton.\"

老马是土生土长的吴忠人,养羊养了小半辈子,他告诉新京报记者,之所以宁夏滩羊没有膻味,正是因为盐池县特有的土地环境,“这里的甘草、苦豆子基本都是温补的草药,在羊的生长过程中,膻味也会被这些草药所去除。”

Old horse is a native of wuzhong people, raising sheep for half his life, he told xinjing newspaper, the reason why ningxia beach sheep have no smell of mutton, precisely because of the unique land environment in yanchi county,\" here licorice, bitter beans are basically warm herbs, in the process of sheep growth, the smell of mutton will also be removed by these herbs.\"

如果单论羊的出栏量,内蒙古自治区无疑是全国的“扛把子”。据国家统计局可以查询到的年份信息,2016年,内蒙古以近六千万只羊的年出栏数量位列全国第一,这个数字足足甩出第二名一大截,整整多出两千多万只。

The Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region is undoubtedly the country's \"carrying handles\" if only on the quantity of sheep. In 2016, Inner Mongolia ranked first in the country with nearly 60 million sheep per year, according to year information available to the National Bureau of Statistics.

全国羊肉产量看内蒙古,可如果说起品质,整个内蒙古则要数锡林郭勒盟,若是范围再缩小一些,苏尼特羊则必须“拥有姓名”。虽说深处锡林郭勒黄金牧场,可苏尼特羊确实是名副其实的戈壁羊。位于锡林郭勒西北地区的苏尼特草原实为戈壁草原,为了生存寻找饲料,苏尼特羊仿佛生在了“运动场”,每日必须奔跑才能拥有紧凑厚实的肉质。

The national mutton production looks at Inner Mongolia, but if speaking of quality, the whole Inner Mongolia will have to count the Silingol League, if the scope is further reduced, the Sunita sheep must have a name. Although deep in the golden range of Scylla, the Sunit sheep are indeed the Gobi sheep. Located in the west of Xilingol, the Sunita grassland is the Gobi grassland, in order to survive in search of feed, Sunita sheep in the \"playground \", daily must run to have a compact thick meat.

中国汉字中的“鲜”字,由“鱼”和“羊”组成,可见“羊”能够占去鲜的半壁江山。在做羊肉的人眼里,苏尼特羊无愧于这个“鲜”字,想吃到地道飘香的羊肉,通常只需要一把食盐和一锅好肉,“盐要最后再放,以免过早析出羊肉中的水分。除此以外,其他的味道都算是画蛇添足。但如果能配上内蒙古的野韭菜花,这个冬天也就完整了。”

The characters of \"fresh\" in chinese characters are composed of \"fish\" and \"sheep \", it can be seen that\" sheep \"can occupy half of the fresh. In the eyes of those who make mutton, Sunita sheep deserve this \"fresh\" word, want to eat authentic and fragrant mutton, usually only need a handful of salt and a pot of good meat,\" salt should be put last, so as not to precipitate the water in the mutton prematurely. Other than that, all the other flavors are painted. But if you can match the wild leek flowers in Inner Mongolia, this winter will be complete.

在新疆吃羊肉,“羊肉串”显得太过“袖珍”,在肥羊足够鲜美的产区,人们吃羊肉难免“豪放”一些,即使是差不多的做法,羊肉串在新疆也被称为“烤肉”。而主产于北疆的阿勒泰羊绝对是让人入口难忘的一种。

Eat mutton in xinjiang,\" lamb kebab \"appears too\" pocket \", in fat sheep enough delicious production area, people eat mutton inevitably \"bold\" some, even if similar practice, lamb kebab in xinjiang is also known as \"barbecue \". And mainly produced in the northern Xinjiang Altay sheep is definitely a memorable entry.

一方水土养一方羊。尽管肉质有所不同,可几近相同的是,好吃的羊,在整个“羊生”里过得够苦,也都足够努力。阿勒泰地区是全国六大林区之一,高纬度让在这里生长的阿勒泰羊生存的每一天都异常紧迫。草原上的青草只有每年第三季度的长势最好,过了这个峰值,草量便会断崖式下降,及其稀少。而阿勒泰羊每天的任务,即是在有限的90天里,储存足够多的营养。在这样的环境下,阿勒泰羊可谓羊中“大胃王”,一天吃16斤的青草不在话下。

One side of water and soil raises one side of sheep. Although the meat is different, almost the same is true of the tasty sheep, which are bitter enough and hard enough in the whole sheep. Altay is one of the country's six major forest regions, and high latitudes make it extremely urgent for Altay sheep to survive every day. The grass grows best only in the third quarter of each year, and over this peak, the grass will fall and become scarce. And the daily mission of the Altay sheep is to store enough nutrients for a limited period of 90 days. In such an environment, Altay sheep can be described as the sheep \"big stomach king \", a day to eat 16 jin of grass.

因为常年在草场跋涉,阿勒泰羊食百草长大,肉质肥美而不膻,即使是用白水烹煮都不会辜负人们对于羊肉的期待。

Because of years of trekking in the pasture, Altay sheep grow up to eat 100 grass, meat fat and not Shanshan, even cooked in white water will not live up to people's expectations of mutton.

或许因为人们会认为,吃与“阳”同音的“羊”肉可以滋补“阳气”,能够给人以生气,让人精神焕发,所以羊肉带有与生俱来的“暖意”。四川人对羊肉的偏爱,在小县城里就能略见一二,除了每条街巷上的羊肉馆,会理的羊肉粉,简阳的羊肉汤更是平日生活中大众的最爱。小县城中,人们的冬日,基本都要被羊肉相关的食物承包。

Perhaps because people will think that eating \"sheep\" meat with \"yang\" homonym can nourish \"yang yang \", can give people angry, let people refresh, so mutton with the birth of\" warmth \". Sichuan people's preference for mutton, in the small county can be seen in one or two, in addition to every street on the mutton hall, will be the mutton powder, Jianyang mutton soup is the favorite of the public in ordinary life. In small counties, people's winter, are basically contracted by mutton-related food.

会理的羊肉用得“讲究”。记者从会理相关部门获悉,借助北纬26度得天独厚的自然和气候优势,会理的山林滋养了国家地理标志产品建昌黑山羊。建昌黑山羊目前是《四川省家畜家禽品种志》中6个地方山羊品种分布区域最广、数量最大、肉品知名度最高的肉羊品种之一,据会理县志记载,以会理黑山羊为主要原料的烫皮羊火锅,已有三百年以上的历史。

The reasoned lamb is used \"fastidiously \". The reporter learned from the relevant departments, with 26 degrees north latitude unique natural and climate advantages, the mountain forest has nourished the national geographical indication products Jianchang black goats. Jianchang black goat is one of the most widely distributed and well-known sheep breeds in the six local goat breeds in Sichuan Province. According to the records of Huili County, the hot-skinned sheep hotpot with Huili black goat as its main raw material has a history of over 300 years.

一般街巷店面外,总会放几头拾掇利落的全羊,店面内几乎被袅袅的烟火气蒸腾起来,只能看到人影晃动。店面里,店家灶上咕嘟着奶白色的羊汤,暖意和年味也在这声音中渐盛。很多时候无关于羊肉的肉质,只是热气腾腾下的一碗鲜汤,伴着熟悉的味道,吃进口中,浇在心头。各地的羊肉各有不同,人们心心念念的那碗味儿最正的羊肉,或许都来自于同样心心念念的家乡。

General street storefront, will always put a few of the whole sheep, the store is almost curled up by the fireworks, can only see the figure shaking. Store, the shop stove with milky white sheep soup, warmth and flavor in the voice of the growing. Most of the time is not about mutton meat, just a steaming bowl of fresh soup, accompanied by familiar taste, eat imported, poured in the heart. There are different kinds of mutton in different places. The most flavorful mutton may come from the same hometown.